Quiche Lorraine
A referendum held in May 1972 confirmed Ireland’s entry into the European community with 83 per cent of voters supporting membership. On the 1st of January 1973 at the age of 9 I became a European. For the people of Ireland this was no easy transition. Raised on spuds boiled in their jackets, Limerick Ham, Irish Stew and Coddle, what did the EEC offer to the people of Ireland?
Some genius did their research and found the perfect food to bridge the cuisine chasm between Ireland and the continent. If you had offered the Irish a leek tart back in 1973 they would have spurned it. You would have found a vegetarian in 1970s Ireland more easily than get someone to eat a vegetable tart. Yes we ate sausages but in those days there were urban fairytales of truckers being served an Andouille to their disgust. The French were renowned for their strange tastes in food and we picked up the Francophobic reaction to Gallic cuisine from our long association with Britain. Frogs legs, snails, foie gras and no end of strangely named smelly cheeses.
Quiche as a name presented a problem. How do you pronounce it? Kwitch? Keesh? Kwaysh? Ki-chee? But if you can hurdle that fence as far as the Irish go you are into the home straight. Forget lardons or pancetta or any of that foreign sounding muck. The Irish Quiche Lorraine uses tried and tested Irish ingredients, freely available in any shop. Effectively it is an Irish Breakfast served as a tart. Pork sausages, bacon, tomatoes and a bit of mushroom for the more adventurous. Fry it all off a bit, toss it into a pastry case and drown it in beaten egg and milk. Rashers, Eggs, Sausages, Tomatoes – nothing wrong with that. Then grate lots of cheddar cheese on top and bake it in the oven.
Of course it was not considered a “dinner”. It occupied this strange culinary location in our cookbooks as a “supper dish”. In practical terms that usually meant you served it for tea, back in the days when tea was a meal, not a drink. If you had guests over for a “dinner party” this strange new fangled phenomenon of eating dinner at night, I suppose you needed strange foods, like quiche.
The 1970’s was a wonderful decade in Irish cuisine when people experimented with radical new foods. In addition to the Quiche we discovered Spaghetti Bolognese, Garlic Bread, American Cheesecake, Fried Chicken, the Chinese Takeaway and most exotic of all, Indian curry. Without stepping on a ferry we consumed our cosmopolitanism, we ingested globalism and digested continentalism. We ate our way into Europe. Salut!
Da Capo; by Jane Hirshfield
Take the used-up heart like a pebble
and throw it far out.
Soon there is nothing left.
Soon the last ripple exhausts itself
in the weeds.
Returning home, slice carrots, onions, celery.
Glaze them in oil before adding
the lentils, water, and herbs.
Then the roasted chestnuts, a little pepper, the salt.
Finish with goat cheese and parsley. Eat.
You may do this, I tell you, it is permitted.
Begin again the story of your life.
-=o0o=-
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