Saviour of the morning, coffee, according to one legend, was discovered by a goat herd on a hot day. When all the world was prostate with the heat he noticed some of his goats gamboling about energetically after nibbling the berries of a coffee bush. The Ethiopian bush was exported to Yemen where the first coffee cultivation took place in the 15th century.
The red berries are dried and shucked to reveal the green coffee beans. These are roasted, ground and brewed into the black, bitter, acidic stimulant. It is a rich and deep liquid with a complex depth of flavours. It was originally used by Sufi mystics as a mind expanding drug and as an appetite suppressant. It was initially banned by Muslim law as haraam because it was thought to be an intoxicant like wine. But in the 16th century the ban was lifted, although to this day it is a drink regarded with suspicion and unsuitable for delicate young minds. Coffee is an adult drink.
Coffee houses are often associated with disrepute. In the Islamic world they were of concern as places for political gatherings. The first European coffee houses brought Turkish Ottoman culture to Christian souls. In England they were famous hangouts for gamblers and prostitutes as well as writers and artists looking for inspiration. The French Revolution was fueled by coffee as conspirators assembled in the coffee houses of Paris. Some historians attribute the availability of coffee to the Union army as a contributory factor to their success in the US Civil War. The Confederacy was reduced to chickory. In the first and second world wars the Germans, deprived of coffee, resorted to ersatz substitutes like roasted dandelion roots out of desperation. In the beat era of the 1950’s and the Rock and Roll era of the 60’s coffee shops were hangouts for new breeds of teenage rebels.
These days it has become the stuff of Huxley’s brave new world. It is a drink that comes with expensive kit and complex rituals. It is a consumerist pissing contest where you invite guests to look at your coffee machine and marvel that you have purchased a contraption to brew coffee that costs as much as a modest car. Quite a distance from the days when we stormed the Bastille in a caffeine fueled burst of societal outrage at income inequality.
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